Swapping oil for biomass to heat a Victorian Orkney house

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Published: September 2011
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Biomass boiler and pellet storeOur house has a fairly unique location situated on the pier in Stromness, Orkney.  Exposure is an issue given it’s surrounded by sea on two sides. The building is a listed, three storey, detached, Victorian, stone house located in a Conservation Area.  The house has 4 bedrooms and many rooms have three outside walls.  There is a large wooden boatshed built onto the east gable.  Recent improvements include loft insulation and double glazing on the first two floors.  Until recently an oil-fired Rayburn provided cooking, heating and hot water.  We also have a coal fire most evenings and electric heating on the third floor of the house.

Although the Rayburn was only installed in 1996 it has proved unreliable and was recently given an approximate efficiency rating of 30-35% (compared with over 90% for modern biomass boilers and gas condensing boilers).  Maintenance costs were high and we were using 4,000 litres each year of increasingly expensive oil.  The house rarely reached a comfortable temperature!

We started to consider alternative forms of heating two years ago but, at that time, we didn’t find it easy to review our options.  We did not have a great deal of confidence in the new technology, the choices were confusing and waiting for tradespeople to assess the best option was a lengthy process.  In the end the only two options that seemed viable were a biomass boiler based on wood pellets or a newer condensing oil boiler.  We were keen to utilise a renewable source of energy but we had reservations about handling, storing and supplying the pellets.

In the summer of 2010 we heard about a generous government grant available to over 75 year olds to install condensing oil boilers.  We talked to the Energy Saving Trust who suggested we should be eligible.  Estimates still had to be obtained from Scottish Gas but we were given a predicted installation date of March 2011.  Fortunately the process was delayed as by early 2011 we were having increasing doubts in being reliant on oil.  Prices for a tank of oil (1,000 litres) had increased to £740 resulting in an annual oil bill in excess of £3,000.  We also became aware of a new scheme called the Renewable Heat Incentive (RHI) to encourage people to move over to biomass boilers.  We also found out more about bulk hoppers which could alleviate our concerns about loading the pellets.

Pellet store of bagsAt this time we read an article in the local paper about a group of renewable energy students setting up a renewables business.  As part of this, were offering free feasibility studies.  They responded to our request for advice immediately, did heat calculations, and supplied information on different boiler options, amount of space needed (including for storage of pellets), potential costs etc.  They also arranged for us to see a biomass boiler in operation.  This could all be passed on to potential suppliers who were registered under the Microgeneration Certification Scheme (MCS).

We requested quotations from a local supplier and also from Green Flame Technology, a company based in Kincraig, Invernessshire.  Green Flame had been highly recommended by one of their customers in Orkney. We only received a response from Green Flame but their quote was favourable and we were re-assured by the fact they were training a local plumber, Davy Prentice of PW Plumbing, to do installations and servicing.

Flue for boilerQuite a lot of preparation work was required before the biomass boiler could be installed.    We checked whether there are local pellet suppliers – there are now two in Orkney.  We arranged for the Rayburn to be removed together while the oil tank was taken for scrap.  A raised platform was built within the boatshed to site the boiler and pellet store to make sure both were kept as dry as possible.  The existing chimney flue was adjacent to this platform and we opened this up from the ‘boatshed side’ to vent the boiler.  [Nb. It is important to have a vertical flue to vent a biomass boiler or stove and also sufficient air ventilation for the boiler itself.]   

Richard da Silva from Green Flame reminded us that we should apply for the Renewable Heat Premium Payment scheme before work commenced.  This was a straight-forward online procedure and, as a result, we received a voucher for £950.  We were also eligible for a grant of £400 from the Scottish government under the Boiler Scrappage Scheme (only operating now in Scotland) – the Energy Saving Trust helped us to get this and emphasized that the application should be made and approved before the old boiler was removed.  We also ordered 1 ton of pellets through our local supplier from Arbuthnott Wood Pellets at a cost of £250 + 5% VAT.  They arrived in 15 Kg bags.  The boiler delivery was organised by Green Flame and arrived from Italy 2 days before the installation was due.

Richard da Silva and Philip McMahon of Green Flame, together with Davy Prentice, took a day and a half to do the installation – their professionalism was impressive and gave us a real boost of confidence that we had chosen the right company. 

Boiler controlsIt is now day 10 since the installation and the boiler is running smoothly and quietly.  Davy the plumber has called in and assisted us with the first cleaning of the ash which is a regular fortnightly process but quite straight-forward.  We have still to learn the intricacies of programming it but we’ll get there. 

We have already noticed a significant difference in the overall temperature of the house and haven’t yet had a coal fire which is unusual for us at this time of year.  During the first week we used 100 Kg of pellets which heated both the house and our hot water.  It is anticipated we will use around 6 tons of pellets a year (£1560).  If you factor in the running costs of our new electric cooker that’s still likely to be a saving of around £1200 annually compared with the Rayburn.  And we’re hopeful we might also qualify for the RHI when it is announced in October 2012 – this could further reduce the payback period to around 2 years.

To sum things up so far, the advantages of a biomass heating solution from our perspective are: they are economical, efficient, quiet, smell-free, and they utilise a renewable fuel source that frees you from a dependency on increasingly expensive oil.  The disadvantages are that installing them can be more labour intensive, filling and cleaning are regular (albeit perfectly manageable) chores, and they take up more space, especially for storage of the pellets.

Biomass boiler in situCost breakdown

Here are our costs broken down:

MCZ 24 kW compact utility boiler:  £3,650

Delivery charge:  £250

Commissioning service:  £260

Plumbing work:  £1,309

Renewable Heat Premium Payment: (£950)

Boiler Scrappage Scheme Payment:  (£400)

Total cost:  £4,319

There were other costs for the removal of the Rayburn and drainage of oil tank but this was more than covered by the sale of the surplus oil.  The cost of removal of the oil tank was covered by its scrappage value.  Two extra radiators had to be purchased for the kitchen and we bought a new electric cooker.

Boiler timer clock on wall

Comments

red boiler greenflame

Hi
I have just installed the new red24 biomass boiler and was wondering if anyone has had a problem with theres? when on heating water only?at present the one i have seems to have a mind of its own i.e burns away using pellet not required and no Eco Stop coming on, the temp reaches above 85c +.

Red24 issues

Hi Craig,

I don't know this boiler - it's hard to find any information about it on the internet. All I know is that it's Italian and is similar to the one in the above case study.

Have you discussed the problems with Greenflame? 

First thoughts suggest that sensors are not wired up or there is a fault with sensors or wiring.

It's potentially worrying too if it's heating hot water in an unvented cylinder (if that is what you have?) as the cylinder could overheat if there is no cut-out for the boiler. However, the safety valves should stop it bursting.

Maybe you could describe your system for us? Then I might also be better able to work out what's wrong.

For example, maybe you have a thermal store/buffer tank? If you do, then the boiler would run longer and appear to 'have a mind of its own', as it works to keep the thermal store charged, with space heating and hot water heating requirements drawn from the thermal store.

Hope that helps, but interested to hear more about your system.

Steven

Many thanks for this detailed

Many thanks for this detailed review.

I am in the process of deciding which heating system we would use for a new build. The build is quite a large house (300 square metres)

I am still confused whether to go for Oil, a Ground Source Heat Pump or a Biomass Boiler. I have been quoted around £20k for full installation of the Wood Pellet boiler. I am wary about the parts available and the servicing costs as it is still a relatively new product in the UK. If I was to install it for £20k in 20 years time would I need to replace the whole system again.. The grant scheme will offset the initial outlay but I am still not sure which system to o for!!

Does the boiler supply your heat and water? Did you ever consider a ground source heat pump? Is it inconvenient by keep topping up the boiler especially in the winter?

Advice on selecting a heat source

Hi Sid,

Are you still in the process of designing the house?

Assuming the answer to my question is 'yes', then I would first of all maximise the passive features of the house (the boring bits, like insulation and air-tightness). Apologies if I am telling you what you already know or have done, as I am trying to answer you and give advice to other readers. You should be aiming for a sensible, but better than the Regs, level of insulation and quality double-glazing, if not triple-glazing. More importantly, make sure that the detailing and then construction of air-tightness measures is to a high standard. If you can aim for 1 cu.m/hr/sq.m at 50 Pascal, and perhaps achieve 2 or 3 instead, this is still much better than the norm of 10. There is plenty of on-line information about air-tightness and how to go about it the right way, including testing. The aim is to design right, rather than fill in holes later with silicone sealant and expanding foam... both of which shrink and fall out. Your architect should be able to advise.

The next step would be to look at ventilation, which could be a MVHR system, if your air-tightness levels are sufficiently low-enough (3 or less). Again, there is quite a bit of info out in the web about this, and you might have already looked into this.

We're still not selecting a heat source yet!

Next, choose the heat output system: radiators, thermal skirting, underfloor, warm wall, fan-convectors... The lower the temperature of the heat emitter, the more suitable it becomes for linking to a heat pump (air or ground source). The lowest water temperatures can be used with warm wall systems (more common on the Continent than here). Next is underfloor, followed by thermal skirting and fan-convector radiators and finally, radiators.

With a well-insulated new-build, and if you are going for a low-temperature heating system (35 degC flow temperature), I would probably recommend a GSHP. Perhaps complemented with a solar hot water system. This should all be installed with a well-designed controls system (modulating, weather compensated, etc) and a heat pump-friendly hot water cylinder. Try and get a heat pump that minimises the use of, or avoids the use of an immersion heater. 

It is important to remember that heat pumps only heat one thing at a time; the hot water cylinder or the rooms! If you have a heat-hungry house, it might cool down quickly whilst the heat pump was heating the hot water. Heating the hot water using a heat pump can take several hours - again, timing is important.

Correctly designed and installed GSHPs can be very economical to run and require minimal maintenance. In your situation and following the above prerequisites, I would therefore recommend a GSHP.

To complicate things a bit: if you 'zip' the house up well-enough, you approach or reach Passive House standards. At this point, a full heating system is unnecessary. You can then heat the house using the MVHR system, with a small heat pump providing boost heating to the air in very cold weather, and providing the hot water heating. You would therefore be heating the house using the air - although it is more heat recovery and moving of heat, rather than input of much heat. A wood stove or pellet stove can sometimes be a suitable background heat source for a Passive House.

If you had a more 'leaky' or less well-insulated house, or if it were an older building, then I might recommend biomass to you. I would also recommend biomass if you were going to be fitting radiators, or already had radiators in an older house. Biomass operates at a higher temperature (80 degC) and is ideal for use with radiator-based heating, and is also good for heating hot water.

Biomass does require space for storing the woodpellets and it requires intervention (once a day, once a week or once a month, depending on the level of sophistication you choose). A heat pump will happily sit there and run for years without attention. If you are interested in running 'heating plant', then you might be more interested in a biomass boiler! 

If you choose biomass, try to find space for a fuel store, and use an auger or vacuum transfer fuel feed system, to automate it, rather than filling the boiler with bags of pellets. Again, it depends on your preferences and probably more importantly, budget. As with a heat pump, try to get the best controls system possible, although most boilers come with their own, excellent control systems, particularly if choosing one of the Austrian or German models.

Your £20k install cost sounds quite high but not unreasonable and will probably be for an automated biomass system, with fuel store and high-spec pellet boiler, and hopefully a thermal store/buffer tank, perhaps combined with a hot water heating coil/heat exchanger in the tank. If that cost also includes some solar hot water heating, even better!

The boiler might need replacing once every 15 - 20 years, but the rest of the system should last much longer (pipes, valves, etc). Pumps usually need replacing more frequently.

You could also spend about the same on a quality GSHP system, perhaps with a few boreholes, rather than a horizontal ground collector. If you are going 'horizontal', try to avoid Slinkies.

Whilst it is aimed at ASHPs, this article does contain some very useful information regarding the selection of a GSHP and designing a heating system to go with heat pumps: http://aecb.net/PDFs/HeatPumpsArticleJuly2011.pdf

Let us know what system you go for, and perhaps you might consider documenting its installation for GEN.

Steven (www.realiserenewables.com

 

 

Hi Steve I replied to your

Hi Steve I replied to your message but guess it hasn't been verified.

If it has then please delete this message!

Steven, many thanks for your

Steven, many thanks for your in depth reply. The information you have supplied is very informative and useful, I appreciate it.

The house design is finished in terms of floors plans, elevations etc.

Our architect is currently working on the building regulations, we are in the process of calculating heats loss etc and he suggested for us to look at potetntial heating sources.

Insulation will definitely be key like you have pointed out.
The new property is very isolated- it will be positioned in a very rural area where the nearest house is approximately 120metres away.

In our new build there will be 4 adults living there and 2 children. There will be someone in the property all of the time therefore the heating will have to stay at a consistent temperature 24/7.

We have researched UFH but thought radiators will probably best suit our needs.

Heating water would be very important. We will have 1 main bathroom and 3 en suites therefore water will be consistently be running in the property.

A ground source heat pump is definitely sounding more appealing now. Finding a trusted and experienced installer will be difficult but key in the process.

I will contact a few local companies and an authorised installer to see what packages they can offer.

I would be more than happy to report on my findings for the website. Bare with me as no doubt it will be a long process!

Regards

Further recommendations

Hi Sid,

If you are still considering a GSHP... I might have second thoughts going by your preference for radiators and a high hot water demand. With hot water "consistently" running, your GSHP might be spending most of its time heating the water, or at least, there is a risk of that happening.

If you don't want underfloor heating, then I would suggest thermal skirting is your next best choice with a GSHP. 

With the high hot water demand, solar thermal is definitely worth doing, whether you choose GSHP or biomass, and you will qualify for the RHI for solar and for the GSHP/biomass.

You might want to have a second thought about the biomass (woodpellet) boiler option, given your situation.

A solution could be to have a GSHP for heating hot water and an ASHP for space heating (to reduce capital costs). The GSHP could have the facility to switch to space heating once it's finished heating the hot water.

Yet another option: have a GSHP for space heating (thermal skirting or underfloor) and the hot water heated by a wood stove or pellet stove, with solar to help. The GSHP could be switched to heat hot water when space heating is not required. An immersion heater in the hot water tank can be there, just in case!

Many choices!

Good luck,

Steven

Thanks for the tips Steve. I

Thanks for the tips Steve. I will explore all our options and will definitely take your advice on board.

Regards
Paul

Location advice

Very interesting and helpful account, thank you. I have similar circumstances, with a Stanley Coal range cooker currently providing my heating and hot water (though not anything like your heating load, ours is a small house in a sheltered location). I'm thinking of directly replacing my Stanley with this, so the boiler would be in the kitchen. How happy would you be with such an arangement? I'm mainly thinking about noise, mess and dust can't be any worse than my current system! How much capacity does the boiler have? Many Thanks

Biomass boilers

Mike - to answer your questions, a biomass boiler should provide you with a clean, dust free solution if installed correctly.  To be honest you shouldn't notice any difference between a modern gas condensing boiler and a biomass one except that you do have to make some effort to re-fill the biomass one.

Biomass boilers do require more storage space as, unlike gas, you have to store the fuel 'on-site'.  The boilers also tend to be larger than gas ones.

Given you have a coal based boiler you should be used to all this.

In terms of capacity, biomass boilers come at a wide range of capacities so you can get a smaller one to heat a smaller space.  You should talk to a good local installer about options - they will advise you on what size of boiler meets your requirements.

prices

I believe these are VAT inclusive costs.

But be sure to check with suppliers like Green Flame (link above) as prices do change regularly.

Victorian house biomass boiler

The artical was very reasuring as I am considering installing the same boiler and finding usable informaion is hard to come by. My question is does the cost breakdown include VAT.

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